## **Video 1 - Don't use concrete, do THIS instead!** https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XodcMhvfkXg **Creating the Base** ## Transcript (YT) 0:00 I just finished this custom totally overbuilt shed and I'm going to show you the entire process from start to 0:07 [Music] finish I'm going to also show you 0:13 exactly how much it cost to build it so here are the 4x6s that I'm going to be putting in there and here's the drip edge that I'm going to be 0:21 using now this is a 10t x 12T shed with a leano style and I looked at buying one 0:28 but when you went out and spec it it was over $8,600 for a similar style but that was 0:33 with panel sighing and some really junky windows so my goal was to come in at half of that cost at $4,300 and for it 0:40 to look twice as good there were definitely some challenges that I had to overcome along the 0:48 way oh my gosh do not fall it was an awesome learning experience and you're going to pick up a ton of tips and 0:55 tricks learning from the wins and the mistakes that I had so let's jump in and start with the foundation so we going 1:01 ahead and started laying out the footprint of the foundation and I spray painted a little black mark right down 1:06 here at my feet about 10 ft off of this fence and then I've got another one over here that is 14 ft away so I want the 1:14 foundation to be 14t by 12T and that'll be 2 ft wider than the total shed which 1:19 will give me a foot overhang on each side so now I'm just going to use this level we'll see how level the land is I 1:26 don't have to be exact here I'm just trying to get a feel for it because we'll really level out the gravel base 1:31 but I've got a 7t level and looks like that's about level right there so looks like it's about a 3in drop halfway down 1:38 and I'm going to check what the drop is in the next 7 ft all right so that looks like it's about 2 and 1/2 Ines on this back 7 ft so in total I've got about 5 1:45 and 1/2 to 6 in of drop so I need to bring a lot of that dirt down here and get it just enough even that we can lay 1:51 down the gravel and that's where we'll get our finished level and be really precise when you're trying to figure out 1:56 where to put your shed sight selection is so important and you really want to find the most level ground that you can 2:02 you really don't want the difference in your sight to be more than the height of the Timber you're using I'm going to using 4X sixes on edge which is 5 and 2:09 1/2 in and when I look over here this is 12 1/2 in off the ground but back over 2:16 the other side it is 6 in off the ground so that means a 6 and 1/2 in drop between the two sides which would mean 2:22 that I would need another beam to come in here and make up that difference so I could back fill it and have a little 2:28 retaining wall more than just so the flatter you can pick your sight the less material you're going to have to use and 2:33 the less hard work you're going to have to do digging it out all right so I moved the site a little bit and after a 2:39 ton of measuring I think this is about as good as we're going to get and I do think we're going to have to bring in some extra Timbers around this low Edge 2:45 because there's just too much change in elevation across the site but I'm going to go ahead and start digging out here before I lose sunlight and see if I can 2:51 level some of this out so we can hit it tomorrow [Music] 3:05 so yesterday I finished removing all the grass I didn't do any leveling but I got that off because you don't want the grass there because it will die and then 3:12 compress after it and you want to have a nice Firm Foundation I also have the string lines all laid out let me show 3:18 you I've got the pleasure of this site not only sloping down but it also has a nice hump in the middle so as you look 3:23 at the string line here I leveled everything out and I wanted to get it as close to the surface at the highest 3:29 point as I could and then that way I'll have to do the least amount of buildup at the lowest area so putting the top of 3:34 the Timber's level with my highest point is just going to reduce the amount of work I have to do for the rest but now I 3:39 have to dig out the trenches start setting these getting them leveled and then we can level the 3:49 [Music] 3:57 center all right a few tips on digging one make sure you dial 811 so you don't 4:04 hit any lines ours was already marked so I know I'm good here two it's best to dig after it's rained in the past few 4:10 days it's not rained for weeks here and three do it right after your kids have done something really bad like I'm 4:18 talking steal the car maybe like some liquor cabinets I don't know and then their punishment dig the hole cuz this is not 4:26 fun but we're almost getting there I've got the trench dug for the Timbers 4:32 and I'm going to show you what I did because this was like four hours of work so we're really going to dig in no I'm just kidding down here we are almost 4:39 even with the ground so the top of the Timber is going to be right here next to the ground and from the string line I dug down 7 and2 in so that I can have 2 4:46 in of gravel and then my 5 and 1/2 in 4x6 on edge now as the yard slopes down here you can see the trench gets 4:52 shallower and shallower until this point right here that's where it starts going more than five and a half inches above 4:57 where the finished level is going to be and that means I need to fill in that space with another Timber when you ## Installing ground beams 5:03 choose gravel it's important to get the right type this is what they call 3/4 in clean gravel you don't want to have 5:09 paper base or anything like that because it is too tightly packed and it's not going to drain well and it also is nice 5:15 and Jagged so it's going to compact together if you get something like River Rocks or something that is rounded then 5:22 those aren't really going to hold together the nice Jagged edges on here make sure it's really tight and compact but it will drain really well 5:29 [Music] 5:38 as I'm putting in the gravel I'm making it easy on myself and I'm using a 2x6 as a standin for the 4x6 because 4x6 are 5:44 very heavy so I'm going ahead and just using this as a reference and seeing where it lines up to the yellow line so 5:51 I'm just trying to get pretty close and I'll do the final adjustments when I have the 7ft level and the real Timbers [Music] 6:05 the gravel is all in and I am losing daylight really quickly so I'm going to pack up tomorrow we'll lay down the Timbers level this out fill it up with 6:11 gravel and then I can start building the wooden base so here are the four My Sixes that I'm going to be putting in 6:16 there and I'm going to start with that lower level obviously and I'm going to start with the long one that'll end up being on the left side so I got the 6:22 piece here I'm going to measure it up and make my first cuts 6:28 [Applause] [Music] all right it's getting a little bit windy out here so don't mind the little 6:33 dead cat on my chest hopefully the audio is still pretty good but uh I cut through the 4x6 and I had to make it in 6:38 two cuts because the blade of the circular saw is not deep enough to do it all in one cut also need to drill some 6:44 holes through the 4x6s and I'm going to use a 9/16 inch augur bit which has a little self augur on it and I'm also 6:50 going to have to drill from the top and the bottom because this is not a full 5 and a half inches that I would need to 6:55 go through so I'm going to mark from the top then Mark from the bottom and drill from each side and I should have a hole that's pretty well 7:01 [Music] 7:06 aligned maybe it worked all [Music] 7:15 right got the first timber laid in here and I'm just going to check for level we're actually pretty close but I just 7:21 need to add a little bit in here and then we'll start laying out the rest over here and see where we can line up 7:26 because we're going to be anchoring all these with/ in rebar all 7:33 right I cut down the next small piece and we're going to just put that right in here and I've already leveled it so 7:38 we should be good to go all right I cut down a couple of pieces of rebar and now I'm just going 7:45 to hammer these in and anchor this into the [Music] 7:51 ground I'm going to leave this rebar proud and then when I put the next one on I'll have the whole drilled and then 7:57 actually put the Timber on top of the rebar instead the rebar through the timber not sure if that's a great way to do it but that's what I'm doing also 8:03 this whole thing got a little catty Wampus so I'm not exactly up against my string lines uh and everything's kind of 8:09 curved but we are square and that's what's important and so I'm just going to kind of adjust things as we go and 8:15 this is just to hold the gravel so I'm probably going way Overkill anyway 8:21 [Music] 8:34 I've got that base layer in now and now basically I can just rest in the four pieces and if you have a flat level 8:40 surface you've skipped a whole lot of work and just go straight to this part after you're working by yourself and 8:46 handling these a little cart is going to be wonders and you can just work one Edge at a time all right we got to lift 8:51 that other end on top of the rebar so I'm going to put a little spacer here at this end so that it'll kind of be at the same height because I think it's going 8:57 to be tricky to get it down on the rebound far if it's at an angle so not sure how this is going to go we'll 9:05 see all right that actually worked pretty 9:14 [Music] good as I'm putting this timber in back 9:19 here it just keeps wanting to twist on me so I actually screwed this 2x6 with it so I'm going to push this forward as 9:25 I start driving in the rebar and that's going to make sure it's straight up and down once 9:31 sunk easier said than done by the way put some body weight on this oh there we go use my 9:40 [Music] 9:52 booty all right you probably can't see me we've got three cell phone lights here because none of my work lights are 9:57 at the new property yet so but I'm putting this thing in before I leave tonight so here we go all 10:08 right [Laughter] taada oh my gosh all right we will uh 10:16 call that a night after I hammer this in I did manage to get the timers on 10:22 last night but right now I'm going to lock these in with some 6in deck screws and I'll have one through the end here 10:28 and then one down into the one below it on each side because I don't have the rebar on these ends and that should hold 10:34 it really nicely now the next step is I need to level out all this dirt so you can see down here we've got a big gap 10:39 over where we have the higher walls and then up here we have a really small Gap so I'm going to take all the dirt from up here and move it down and see where 10:46 that gets us and the goal is to have 4 in from the dirt to the top of the Timbers and that's where we'll put our 10:52 gravel to make this a little bit easier because it's kind of hard to eyeball it I'm going to measure down 4 in around 10:58 all of the Timber and then do a chalk line so I have a nice visual representation of what that 11:03 4 in should look like all right now just got to do some 11:09 [Music] 11:18 digging as I'm Shoveling this around I'm trying to rake it flat and about every inch or two of dirt that I put up here 11:24 it's all going to be loose so you want to use a tamper to make sure that it gets down solid because you don't want that settling after we put in the gravel 11:31 and the shed on top we want this to all be nice and compact again huge pain in the button if you rent a compactor that 11:37 would be amazing but um we're using a brad pactor so here we 11:44 go all of our dirt is level and about 4 in underneath the top of the Timbers so now I'm going to put some weed fabric in ## Installing the gravel 11:51 and basically that's just going to help to obviously keep the weeds out but also more importantly so that the gravel just 11:56 doesn't sink down into the dirt it's going to help prevent that a bit I'm going to staple it to the sides here and then I'll overlap it about 6 in and then 12:03 just go through and roll it [Music] 12:13 out instead of using fabric Staples to keep this down I'm just going to put a little bit of gravel on top there 12:19 that'll hold it down from the wind and then that way you don't have to waste any of those Landscaping Staples and makes it 12:26 faster so I neglected to think about this is a 12-in opening and I was using 4-in landscape fabric so I overlapped it 12:32 also I didn't do it exactly straight so now I'm open about a 1ft strip so what I'm going to do is just extend this half 12:37 the distance cut it in half and then kind of piece me or two pieces in there so maybe think about that if you could 12:43 get the 3ft rolls then maybe that would be easier or 4ot 6 in rolls I don't know 12:49 anyway that's what we're going to do [Music] 12:59 [Music] 13:07 so I highly recommend having a dump cart like this one I bought this one a few years back this is the gorilla cart I 13:13 bought it with my own money it is awesome and it is worth its weight in gold or in this case 13:21 gravel all right we've made uh I don't know eight or nine trips and we are about halfway through so all the 13:27 landscape fabric is covered up and so so we probably have somewhere around 2 in I'm going to go ahead and Tamp it down 13:32 because if you try to Tamp 4 Ines of Rock all at one time it's going to be a little bit harder so I'll give it one good T then we'll finish up with the 13:39 rest start 13:49 leveling and I've changed my recommendation it is not to get a gorilla cart Gorilla Carts are amazing 13:55 what the tip is and this is the best tip I can ever tell you of any of the foundation or is don't get the gravel delivered right 14:02 there get it delivered in here after you've made your form I ordered the 14:07 gravel too early they had to dump it in the yard I could have saved a whole day in I don't know 1,22 trips with that but 14:14 that is 2 yards of gravel and it is pretty much all done I'm going to Tamp it down and then we'll be ready for the 14:20 base tomorrow all right I've done some tamping on the gravel but I want to make sure it is nice and level so I actually 14:25 found this 16t 2x4 from where we tore down the butcher shop in there in the in 14:31 the shop and now I'm going to use this to kind of screed along and just push things and then we'll get some tamping 14:37 that way we'll make sure everything's nice and level now I'm going to be building the base on 4x4 skids and that means it ## Building the shed base 14:43 we'll be able to move it around if we ever need to put it in a different spot but my goodness I Will Never Move it 14:49 because I did a lot of work on that base so I still have the 4x4s here these are 12 Footers because we're going to have 14:55 12T wide but these are actually coming in at 12 1 in so so are the 2x sixes so I'm going to have to actually cut an 15:01 inch off of every one and then I'm also going to put a little bevel on the end of these and I'll show you in a 15:08 second all right this is the better way to cut the bells I'm just going to Mark in 2 and 1 12 Ines here now I've got my 15:15 saw set to 45° and then I can just make the 15:22 cut for the basis shed and the joist I'm going to be using 2x sixes and these are also pressure treated I've got a bunch 15:28 of 12T here because I could not find them in 10t so I will be using full 12T for the front and the back and then in 15:34 between they will be 10-footers but I'm going to use the offcuts to help strengthen in between the joists which 15:39 you'll see but it would be more efficient if you could just find 10f Footers I'm just start laying out the skids and put them about 4ot apart 15:44 because I'm using four of them over 12T we'll adjust these in a minute once I start putting everything 15:52 together all right I've got these guys spaced out not 4 foot they're just evenly spaced it's actually like 3 feet 15:57 and 4 inches but now I'm checking for level and all of these look 16:03 good this is great and I know that there's going to be a little bit of rays up on some of these because I know that 16:09 the 4x4s have a little bit of bow to them so I'm just looking to be in the general ballpark that's great I've got 16:15 contact on all three of these which means that they are all nice and even now we can start building out the frame 16:21 now we're just going to build our perimeter and I'm going to start with the front board and one of the side ones to attach everything together I'm 16:27 just going to be using some 3-in deck screws now if you have a framing nailer that is another way to go I don't have a 16:33 framing nailer and box of screws is only uh 35 or 40 bucks so we're going to do it this way now before I put the 16:39 backboard on I'm going to drop it down right here in front of the front one because it's already nice and standing up and solid and I'm going to butt them 16:46 up together and now I'm going to Mark where all my inner joists are going to go and I want to make sure they're laid 16:51 out so that when I put the plywood on here that the edge of the plywood will hit on the center of one of the boards 16:56 so it's important you get the right layout and also we are going to have plans for this build it won't be available till the end but this is one 17:03 of those things that you definitely want to make sure that you get right because it'll be a pain in the butt when you put on the plywood later so to lock our 17:09 frame into square I'm going to attach the first skid and I'm going to drill some counter syn holes here so that when 17:16 I put the screw in it's going to have a lot of purchase down 17:21 there now I'm going to measure for square I'm going to measure the diagonals of each side if they're equal 17:26 that means it's square if not I'll have to adjust all right we're just over 188 in here 17:34 and right about 187 on there so this other side needs to come in about a half inch so I'm going to put my tape measure 17:41 on the long Edge and I'm going to knock this corner in until it reaches 187 and 17:46 a half all right 187 and a 17:52 half oops I was at 187 half I should have stopped all right there we go 18:02 all right back at it this morning and a real quick note I know you've seen me having some evenings I have not been 18:08 doing full days on this and we're actually here in the morning today but most of the days before it's been after 18:14 lunch because we' been doing things in the morning so it's not taking as many days as it looks like even though it is 18:19 a lot of work but now I'm going to start putting in the joist on these marks that I did earlier and when I'm putting these 18:24 in I'm going to sight down them and you want to have the crown up so if it has a little curve to it you want that to be 18:30 on the top side I'm going to put these all in and attach them on this side and then come around to the other side and 18:36 screw them all in over 18:42 there some of these joints were pretty warped and they had a nice big bow on them so I'm going to be putting in some bracing when I cut these down to 10 foot 18:49 I had some leftovers so you can see on this one right here this is almost touching but then if I go all the way 18:56 down here to the end we've got about a 3/4 in gap so putting these here 19:02 in between it's going to add strength but it's also just going to straighten everything up so when we're putting down the plywood we'll make sure that we're 19:09 hitting the 19:14 joist for the sheathing I'm using 3/4 in RTD sheathing which is basically like a CDX it's not exterior grade plywood but 19:22 is exposure grade plywood so it's fine if it gets out here it gets a little bit of rain on it but you do want to dry it 19:27 in and not have it out in the elements for extended time I'm going to lay this down perpendicular with the joists I'm 19:32 going to start by screwing down the perimeter and you want to do every 6 in on the perimeter and every 12 in on the 19:38 field but I'll do the perimeter first then we can run some chalk lines where the joist are and do everything on the inside now this next piece should be 19:44 right at 4T I'm going to butt it up to the previous piece snap a chalk line then I'll cut that off I use the off cut 19:50 down there on the other end and you can see right here on the seam where these line up this is exactly what we want we 19:55 want that seam Landing right in the middle of one of these joist so that you can screw into it from both 20:05 [Music] sheets the nice thing about a 10x 12 is 20:13 that you can get it all out of four sheets of plywood and then just have a little 2tx 4T offcut so I'm going to cut 20:19 this little last piece we'll screw everything down and'll be looking 20:24 good to find where to put the screws in the field and find the joist I'm just going to do a shock line and going to 20:29 look at the screws of where I screwed the joist in I'm going to do the same thing on the other 20:35 side I'll just do that on every joist and then tie in all my 20:46 [Music] screws now a ton of people ask me why didn't I do a concrete slab foundation 20:52 and well that's because the cost around here ranges anywhere from $8 to $12 per sare foot so that would be 960 to $1,200 20:58 $ for that concrete slab and that was a little more expensive than I was looking for also it would be on that slab 21:04 foundation and I wouldn't be able to move it around on skids like it is now all right so let's start looking at the cost of the projects and I'm going to 21:10 round everything to the closest Dollar the lumber actually came in right at $500 the gravel and the ground cover was 21:18 $280 and the Fasteners came in at $97 and that put the foundation cost right 21:24 at $877 Which is less than what that cheapest vers version of the poured 21:29 concrete slab would have cost me also we do have plans available if you want to build your own shed it'll show you exactly how to make this Foundation as 21:36 well as the framing and all the future Parts it's got a full parts list as well as detailed instructions so if you want 21:41 to build your own there's a link Down Below in the description and we appreciate your support but as winter was fast approaching I jumped in to 21:47 start framing the front wall is going to be the most complicated so we're going to go ahead and start with the back ## Framing the back and side walls 21:53 wall so this is a leano design my back wall is going to be a little bit under 8 ft so I went ahead and made my cut on 21:59 this board and I clamped it down so now what I'm going to do is I just made up this little scrap this is super official 22:05 stop block this is basically just so I can make some repeated Cuts this is a cool little setup that I 22:10 had using some Craig saw horses works out really [Music] 22:17 nicely now I can just butt the rest of them up to this block make my cuts I'll have all the same 22:24 size so these are going to be my bottom and top plates for the wall and these run the the full 12 ft so I am just 22:30 going to butt these up together and then start marking out the locations for my studs and they're going to be 16 in on Center that would be 22:38 here now laying these out can be tricky we will have plans available to show you everywhere to lay out and we'll have 22:44 those at the end of the entire [Music] Series so I framed the whole Foundation 22:49 using screws but this is going to be a lot more Fastener so I went out and grabbed a framing nailer and I'll be using 3-in 22:56 Nails I'm going to Crown all my walls so that the crown is on the outside so I 23:02 have a nice consistent surface for the sheathing and we want to end the project 23:09 with as many fingers as we started with so make sure you keep your hands away from where the nail is going to go into 23:15 you do not want a framing nail in your finger you always want to do your long 23:21 walls first because then you can use the whole Foundation as this nice flat building surface 23:31 I'm going to stand up the back wall now and since I'm by myself my lovely wife Susan is filming me but I'm going show you how you can do this by yourself and 23:37 basically you can use a little sleeper I don't know what you call it a sleeper or Little Helper beam and what I can do is 23:44 Lay these out here and I'm going to screw this in right to the side 23:51 here that's will screw is going to act as a hinge so when I raise the wall up this little arm is going to come up and 23:57 help support it and then I can and attach the wall onto the foundation there goes that all right I'm 24:02 just going to square this up on the back 24:12 [Music] wall now a few framing nails in each 24:17 little Bay we'll have this nicely secured and ready for the 24:24 sidewalls well we've got the shed version of mistakes were made and I got a little just air nailer happy and while 24:32 I have the side squared up and it's nice and tight here between the bottom plate and the outside Ledger skirtboard 24:39 whatever you want to call it I neglected to check as I went down so as I started getting down here I am you know about an 24:46 eighth of an inch off and that's not great because as I put the sheathing on then it's going to have a hump it's going to be all weird so I'm going to 24:53 have to go in and I'm actually just going to pry it up and just saw all the nails off and then Square it up and go 24:59 back in with new nails so yeah don't do that attach the ends first and then come 25:05 back in and make sure everything is square before you just start going crazy or if you use screws that' be even 25:12 better so the sidewalls are basically just going to be a shorter version of the back wall they're going to be at the 25:17 same height because I'm going to add in some framing that's going to get that slope for the lean to on it later and 25:23 then the front wall is going to be quite a bit taller and I still have the stop block set up so I can cut all the studs 25:28 for the sidewalls at the same time and then cut the top and bottom plates and go ahead and get them all together 25:35 [Music] 25:49 [Music] 26:01 now I know I told you to do the long walls first but I'm actually be doing the side ones and that's just because 26:07 we're running out of daylight and I want to get these done so that I can move them off to the side do the front wall 26:12 tomorrow bring it up and then just insert the sides so as far as moving stuff around it would definitely be easier to do the front wall next but I'm 26:19 doing the sides first because I like to do it the hard way I guess [Music] 26:34 [Music] 26:49 all right I'm losing light in these short winter days so I'm going to leave these up here come back tomorrow on the 26:54 front wall and then we can start standing everything up the front wall is definitely going to be complicated cuz we've got the double doors in the front ## Building the front wall 27:00 plus the three windows up top so I've got my full layout here but the way I'm going to construct it instead of having 27:06 a top plate and a bottom plate the very top is going to actually have a 2x6 header on it so I'm actually going to 27:11 build it from the base up and I'll show you as I go how that looks now since the front wall is going to have openings 27:16 we're going to have different stud lengths on it unlike what I did on the side and the back where they were just all one size I just marked an X where 27:23 the studs would go well on here we want to make some designation so my outside studs I'm going to actually have four 27:28 different studs here on the outside because we're going to have two different headers one for the windows and one for the doors and the way I'm 27:35 going to mark that is a k for a king stud that goes all the way to the top and then a j for a jack stud and 27:40 actually because I'm going to have two different lengths I'm going to go J1 and J2 so that'll Define my corner studs 27:47 here now I can just go out and lay out the rest of the studs that will go into the front wall as well as the door 27:53 opening [Music] 28:17 all right so I've got my king stud attached which is going to be the longest one that goes all the way up to the header and then now I've got my 28:23 first Jack stud in so I'm just going to put this right up next to it I will also o attach it from the bottom but then 28:29 we're going to nail it into the king stud every 12 in is what I looked up and it looks like that's the nailing 28:36 pattern then I'm going to put one more Jack stud here and so we'll have a double Jack that's going to be supporting a 2x6 header that goes across 28:44 the entire entrance and then on this fourth spot here this one is going to be 28:49 my smaller I called it Jack 2 I don't know if you technically call a crippler but this is going to be our stack up and 28:54 then we can start building some of the header pieces inside 29:01 [Music] 29:16 now you can get a feel for what I'm doing here up here in the top will be the header and this is a 2x6 which be 29:23 what our header will be made out of so that can fit right in here on the top I'm going to be putting a top plate on 29:28 later that's going to attach everything together then I'm also going to have double 2x4s running across that way to 29:33 support another header that's underneath the door so that's why I did these shelves first then we can stack it in 29:39 and then everything should line up great so I'll be using two 2x sixes for the header but if you have two 2x6s together 29:45 then it's actually going to be an inch and a half less than the thickness of a 2x4 so we'll solve that by putting in a 29:52 little piece of this 716 OSB this was a leftover from holding the Rocks it's really nasty but we just need it as 29:58 [Music] 30:13 spacer with the 2x6 is cut to size I cut these little pieces and now I can just put this on here and we will make a 30:20 little 2x6 an OSB sandwich it'll be right at 3 and 1/2 in 30:32 [Music] 30:45 [Music] now I can fill in this next pieces which going to be the top of the door the 30:52 header for the door will go right underneath here and then the top of this actually will be a double top plate and that will find the window opening up at 30:59 the top now before I put on that second 31:07 plate on top mid plate top plate whatever you want to call it I need to transfer the locations cuz I want to put 31:12 in my studs in between here because I can nail through one top plate really easily if I have a double top plate I'm 31:17 going to have to toenail and that's just a pain in the butt so I'm going to use a little story stick and actually transfer 31:23 all these lines over to this other top plate to make sure that everything is nice nice and parallel I could measure 31:29 but things tend to get a little off as you start stacking all the studs so a story stick makes it a lot easier 31:35 [Music] 32:03 all right I made up a header for the doorway and this should fit right in between here if I'm lucky ooh that's 32:13 nice and then I have these other little Jack studs that will go in place to hold 32:21 it up I'm just going to nail everything off then we'll just have to do the windows 32:31 all right we've got everything framed out here except for the windows and I decided not to put a double top plate on 32:36 top of this part here because it's not really carrying much load and actually what I'm going to do when you see it in the plans is I'm going to add a top 32:42 plate on top of this whole thing I think it'll make assembly a little bit easier and it'll probably give it a little bit more structural integrity and now I just 32:50 have the little window blocking that I'm going to put in and I also cut a spacer 32:55 so that I will be able to make sure that all the windows are the same size so that when we put those in it's going to go 33:01 [Music] 33:09 [Music] smoothly now for the center window instead of measuring in from the left 33:14 and the right I'm going to find my center point so I already Mark that down here at the bottom and at the top I know I'm at 77 but I'm going to mark this 33:22 that's my center now I can use my spacer and put that right there I'll clamp it in place and make sure the window is 33:28 perfectly centered instead of being off going from the sides I'm trying to nail these from the 33:35 outside because the inside is going to be where the window is and I don't want to have any instructions it's kind of hard to get down in between these two 33:41 little tight ones so I am going to use some screws just to make sure that everything is nice and 33:47 [Music] 33:52 secure all right I brought in reinforcements because that wall I think is going to be pretty heavy so I would 33:58 advise you to get some help when you lift it by yourself or don't lift it by yourself and get some help okay here's what I'm thinking I'm thinking we're 34:04 going to have to pull it forward a bit to go up with it call you get right there one two 34:12 three there we go go up go up oh 34:23 yeah all right 34:28 [Music] all right let go can we walk oh no don't 34:33 I'm just kidding we've got that front wall up now we can start bringing in the sides and I ## Tying all the walls together 34:39 just temporarily attached the front wall to the sides as well as to the front with some screws and then we're going to 34:44 bring the sides in attach them to the back wall then loosen up the front wall and tie everything together so it'll all 34:49 be nice and tight so we're going to flush up this sidewall now to the back wall and to this outside edge here I'll 34:56 just use this block to tell me when I'm [Music] 35:08 good and this time I'm remembering to check the edge before nailing it 35:17 down I'm just going to clamp these together and make them flush you really don't have to worry about it being Plum right now because the whole thing is 35:23 going to move a bit until we put the sheathing on so once we put the sheathing on that's going to Square everything up right now we'll just rely 35:30 on our measurements and get everything lined [Music] 35:42 up L pass that little tab use your fingers in there now rack it rack it 35:50 with that R it oh 35:59 [Music] 36:06 doesn't fire until that's fully depressed so push it all the way in then just one click of the trigger I 36:12 know there you go oh my 36:19 gosh there you go good work son you might be a builder just yet 36:27 Minecraft builder the last piece is putting on the 36:35 top plate so we're going to nail this in and it overlaps the sidewall and the back wall and that really helps to again 36:41 lock that together and it just gives the extra durability of that second top PL [Music] 36:51 [Music] 36:59 now I'm going to nail in the front wall and this is actually going to be removed once we put the door in so I'm just going to put One Nail here and then nail 37:06 off the rest framing was probably the most fun part as you start standing the walls up 37:11 it really comes together and starts looking like a shed and that is really rewarding and yes I did have a little 37:16 bit of help but that's what family's for now of course in the shed plans we do have the full framing detail included so 37:22 if you're interested again link Down Below in the description now looking at the framing cost I spent 4 $497 on 37:29 Lumber and $159 on Fasteners so that takes the total for the framing portion to 37:35 $655 and the total project cost to $1,532 now these costs do just reflect 37:42 materials obviously you're going to need a tool set to do that but that can vary so widely and the prices of tools very 37:47 widely I went ahead and just left that portion out but if you want to see some of the tools that I did use we are going 37:53 to have links below down in the description as well the shed was looking great and I moved on to the roofing I'm ## Cutting rafters and birdsmouths 37:58 going to be using 2x sixes for the roof so I've got them all here and instead of going up there and actually measuring 38:04 where they're going to be laid out on the front wall and the back wall I'm going to do that right here and use this 38:10 2x4 as a story stick so I'm just going to go ahead and Mark 24 38:15 in all the way 38:20 [Music] down so I've got my story stick and I did Mark the front side just so we don't 38:26 get confused as we put it up there now let's go transfer the marks all right I am going to start this 38:33 16 inches from the edge so let me go ahead and measure that out and that's where I'm going to start 38:40 this beam and it is going to be 24 in on Center so actually we're going to have a piece that's going to overhang here on 38:45 the side and so it's all going to connect in you'll see that a little bit later all right so now I can just move 38:50 this to my line and I'm going to flip it up on its Edge so I can see the marks now I'll just transfer these over then 38:57 we can mark them this last one's just going to be right at the end of the board since it's 39:03 a 10ft board now I know exactly where my Rafters will go now we'll just go to the back wall and do the same 39:11 [Music] 39:16 thing all right so before I throw the rafters up there I need to make a few cuts and the first one I'm going to make 39:22 is actually to mirror the slope of the rafter as it is Up on the Roof if we 39:28 just left it cut at the 90° that it's at then the front of the trim would tilt 39:34 back at around 9° and I'm not an absolute Savage so we're going to make 39:39 this cut so that it sits flush and so that my perfectionist Tendencies will be 39:44 satisfied the way I designed the roof is a 212 pitch so for every 12 in it's going to raise 2 in up I marked this on 39:51 the front and I did that by putting a rafter Square against that front header and then just drew a vertical line line 39:57 up against the rafter as it was sitting up there so that's an easy way to do it but you can also figure that out by using these numbers right here on your 40:04 Carpenter square and I have this nice little fancy one that I've been using but they're on just the normal ones as 40:10 well it says common and this is your angle so basically you pivot right on the pivot point and as you go up when 40:17 you get to two that is a 212 so that's a cool way to lay out the pitch on a roof when you're using the 212 312 412 method 40:24 and of course when we're using power tools there's no more important safety rule than to wear these safety 40:30 [Music] 40:47 glasses I've got all the cuts on one end now I'm going to cut it to size and I'm going to take the top angle that I 40:53 already cut and I know the length that I need the whole thing to be to get the size roof that I want so I can just 40:59 measure all the way down here I can make the mark do the same 212 pitch layout and then cut all those on the miter saw 41:06 and you might notice that some of these boards have been really long and those are because those are the ones I salvaged from the tear down of the old 41:12 shop inside so I got some of those Rafters from the butchering room and uh they're just a little bit long so we're 41:18 going to cut them down and we'll use some of those pieces for the blocking later now I can use this board that I just cut to line it up and measure out 41:25 the rest of them so they all should be the same same length be a little bit easier than measuring them and trying to get that rafter angle on each 41:32 [Music] one all right that'll do let's pick this 41:40 up tomorrow all right is a beautiful day today and I'm going to start by doing the bird's mouths on the Rafters so that 41:46 we can set them up there and have nice support and yes yesterday was a short day but I've been having challenges with 41:52 this entire build it's been a process winter is a horrible time to start a 41:58 shed video we had ice then it turned into snow which actually was pretty amazing because we got to go sledding on 42:03 the hill it was fantastic but then that snow turned into water as it melted so I 42:09 had put this huge tarp over everything to try to keep the wood protected and then it ended up leaking and it was just 42:16 a huge nightmare the wood on the floor is actually very weathered now so it's a rustic shed but we're back now and we're 42:23 going to be finishing it so let's get this done all right so on this back rack after I want a 6 in overhang on the back 42:29 and we're going to have a couple pieces back here so I want this to be 4 and 1/2 in so I'm going to move it in right 42:37 about there should give us that 6in overhang so what the bird's mouth is going to do is we're going to cut out a little Notch so that we will have full 42:43 support on top of this top plate because right now we are just resting on a singular point and that's not going to 42:49 really do a great job of carrying the load all right so I'm just going to line this up with the back of the top plate 42:55 and make my mark for my heel cut and without moving the rafter I'm going to do the same thing on the front side 43:01 so that line that we drew is the heel cut and that should be at the same angle as what we cut on our front and the back 43:08 of our Rafters and so basically what we do is we want the seat which is the next cut to be the same size as whatever our 43:15 top plates are which are going to be 3 and 1/2 in so I'm going to take my Carpenter Square I'm going to line it up 43:20 with the heel cut the back side and then right here I'm going to get it to 3 and 1/2 in to the edge and and then that's 43:27 going to be my mark now we could cut these a few different ways I think I'm going to use a jigsaw because with a circular saw a 212 pitch is a really 43:34 harsh angle and I don't think I could do that very well so we're just going to go with the 43:39 jigsaw all right so here we go it's a pretty good looking one now I'm going to do the same thing on the 43:50 back all right now we can do a test fit and this was my first time cutting these so not going to be surprised if they're 43:56 not not exactly right all right put it on here oh all right so this one there's 44:03 a little gap on here but what I just realized is the Cut's actually good it's that the front 2x6 is higher than the 44:09 back 2x6 and I should have a top plate on top of this which I talked about in the last video and I don't but whatever 44:16 this should work let's check the back all right this back cut it actually looks pretty good uh but I've got some 44:21 space here in between the heel which basically means that I cut the front heel a little bit too far down but this 44:27 is all going to be covered up at the end so the main thing is that we just have a good amount of the wood hitting on this 44:32 top plate so I think we're good I'm going to go ahead and transfer the marks to everything [Music] 44:45 [Music] ## Installing rafters and blocking 44:53 else we've got the rafters up but we want to make sure they have a solid connection to the rest of the shed so 44:59 I've got these little rafter ties right here and I'm going to be putting these on the front and the back of every rafter I've got my rafter lined up on 45:06 the mark and I'm going to pull it all the way forward and then these just slide right under here I'm going put all 45:12 the screws in here we'll do the same thing on the back side right now I'm coming all the way 45:18 over to the other side and I'm going to put in the last rafter and the reason I'm doing that is so then I can run a 45:23 string line across the front and make sure that they're all aligned because all these Cuts you know I made them so 45:29 they might be 45:35 off oh yeah right now I can just position each rafter on my marks and then come up and 45:42 make sure it's at least getting close to that line I'll just continue that through the rest of them 45:49 [Music] 45:59 with the rafters up now we need our front and back uh Ridge board something like that I don't know what it's called 46:05 exactly let me know in the comments what it's called cuz I don't know but I'm going to measure these and make these 46:11 the same length that the entire roof is going to be wide and then I'll put in those other Rafters that I had talked 46:18 about earlier I cut the front and the back to size but now I'm going to Mark where all the stud locations are so I 46:23 know where to put it on the front because it's not going to be flush with both of the ends I've lost my camera 46:28 lady and my helper so I'm going to be using these clamps as kind of a 46:33 secondhand here so and I'm hoping that this will help support it and I've got another one at the end there all right 46:40 so let me see if this thing is going to hold down there this will be very hard to do if it 46:46 doesn't still not the best option because I've got to look on the back side of 46:52 this need to be over quite a bit 46:57 so as I'm up here I'm just thinking it probably would have been better to screw a block to the underside of this and 47:03 then have it rest on that all right actually that's exactly what I'm going to 47:14 do this is the real life behind doing it yourself it's not as easy as everybody makes it 47:23 look all right that was the hard part now I can just fire in screws cross the rest of the 47:28 face you know what I just said everything could be fixed don't worry about it when you look at this from head 47:34 on this is way further over than it's supposed to be and the other side is 47:39 almost flush so I put this on upside [Laughter] down mistakes were made what can we 47:49 do oh okay [Music] 48:07 so the way that I assembled this you'll notice I don't have Rafters on the outside of the building and I did that so that I can save material doing it 48:13 this way will save you either one or two 2x sixes and it will save money but since we don't have support here what 48:19 I'm going to do is put in some blocking so I'm going to do blocking in between the supported rafter and this outside 48:25 board here and then after after I do that all the way through I'll build in another piece of support underneath and 48:31 then I'll put some little crippler studs underneath here and that will transfer the load so everything will be nice and supported I'm just not using that extra 48:37 2x6 on each end we'll see how it works 48:42 [Music] 48:53 [Music] 49:02 all right to close off this end wall I'm going to be putting the 2x4 up against these so I can kind of build my structure and I made an angled cut 49:09 already on the end but I don't know where it needs to cut off just yet so 49:14 these are going to be screwed up to this to form that support and then I'll do the studs in between but I need to 49:21 figure out where to make the cut down there so I'm just going to temporarily screw these in so that I can make my mar 49:38 Mar all right I got a little stud cut for each one of these other studs all the way down to this cute 49:44 little guy right here and I'm running out of screws so I'm actually just going to nail these in 49:52 [Music] 50:00 that does nothing all right the last thing to do for the roof before we start sheathing is putting in some blocking 50:06 and this is going to be for the sopit so basically there's going to be some open areas here where we wouldn't be able to 50:11 nail off the sopit when we're done so we'll put this in there and it'll give us a good place to attach it when we go 50:16 to do [Music] those I'm going to go ahead and sheath ## Sheathing the walls and roof of shed 50:22 the sides of the shed first and that's going to really make everything a lot more rigid when I was up there is really kind of moving around so before I get on 50:29 there and start putting on Roofing let's get this firmed up so I'm going to start on the back and the way I designed this whole thing is that I can have the 2x6 50:36 here flush at the bottom and then a full sheet will be able to go up so I'm going to go ahead and secure this in and this 50:43 will help me put up the OSB so it doesn't fall down and then get it up there start tacking in place and just 50:49 rinse and repeat all the way around now I'm just be shooting the nails down the edge and I did go ahead and Chuck marked 50:55 where my studs are because CU now I can know where to nail just looking at the chalk 51:00 lines I'm going with OSB here because I'm going to be installing lap siding over the top of it now another popular 51:07 way to do that is just to do straight t111 or Smart Siding full 4x8 sheet panels and then you could basically be 51:13 putting on your exterior right now 51:20 [Music] 51:30 [Music] 51:35 that'll do we don't have the top part but this is good 51:44 [Music] 51:52 [Music] 52:12 all right I got the sheathing up and I'm going to go ahead and apply some house wrap on this now I've got the little 3-ft rolls instead of the huge 9ft rolls 52:19 just cuz it's going to be easier to work with and I'm just going to slap them up there with this uh little wacka slapper 52:24 thing it's technical term but you do not have to put house wrap on your shed obviously I just want that extra layer 52:30 of protection in case any water does get behind there cuz I might be storing some things that I really don't want to get wet inside there all right I'm going to 52:38 have to figure out how to manage this thing here as I go but I'm just going to get it 52:46 started whoa do not try to knock in a staple with the back of your staple gun 52:52 could do some chalk lines or something fun will that be 52:59 [Music] all right so now what I'm going to do is 53:05 take the clamp let the pole fall through and for this next layer you want about 6 53:10 in of [Music] overlap all right for the top Windows 53:17 I'm just going to run a piece right over the front of them and I'll leave it that way until I go to install the windows 53:23 that way it'll just give me a little bit of protection from that wind blowing in CU it's probably going to be a little bit before I get those windows in now 53:30 I'm going to move on to the sheathing of the roof and this is one of the new materials that I was talking about so 53:35 this is not sponsored or anything I just saw this in Home Depot and I was looking and I think it was like only a couple bucks more than the regular OSB but it's 53:42 from Georgia Pacific and they call it forcefield which is just cool so what they've done here is this is just 53:48 regular 716 OSB but on the top they have this gray weather barrier system and 53:55 basically what it is is it's like having a uh like a like a zip sheathing over the top of it like a tape because you 54:01 can kind of see here on the sides where they just apply it so they're applying it and they're basically waterproofing 54:06 so you do not need felt if you use this all right so be starting on the back and I'm going to use a couple blocks to put 54:12 up here so that way that the board will not try to slide off as I start getting the OSB sheets 54:18 on I am not sure how this is going to go but I'm going to just kind of try to take this up the ladder and you know 54:25 shimmy it up there as I go there we 54:32 go that wouldn't bad at all all right we're going to start in this back corner and if everything is laid out properly 54:39 then I should be able just to align this the nice thing about having these little blocks right here is I can just butt it up against and I know it's flush with 54:44 this Edge start nailing it 54:49 [Music] down all right so now I can take my first measurement for my other piece and 54:56 and I'll basically be staggering these so I'm going to cut a small piece we'll just start cutting and placing these things down we should be 55:02 [Music] 55:10 good [Music] 55:20 hey I didn't get H Clips so I'm just going to be using some little framing nails for my 8in spacing in between the 55:26 pants [Music] 55:31 all right guys a little word of warning and I lost my camera lady again but as I was pushing the new OSB sheet up and 55:38 getting it over the top of the ladder it scraped on the edge and it just tore that little uh covering off the force 55:45 field really badly and I think that's close enough to the edge where I can cover that with the seam tape but yeah 55:50 you definitely got to be careful with this I don't know how great this stuff is I'm definitely not a Believer just yet but uh we'll see how it keeps 56:05 [Music] 56:10 going all right yesterday I put up the sheathing and I noticed on the front edge that uh it was overlapping by know 56:17 about a quarter of an inch and that's because I didn't account for the eighth of an inch Expansion Joints when I 56:22 designed that I am going to take care of that in the plans though when we have those available and then will be available at the end of the build so 56:28 this morning I went ahead and trimmed everything up with a router it was Dusty as all get out uh but now it's nice and 56:34 smooth and we can start to put on the fascia now for the fascia I'm going to be using these 16t LP Smart Siding 1x8 56:41 and these are great because I'm not going to have to do any kind of joints I was looking at PVC but the most I could 56:46 find that in was a 12-footer and that stuff is super expensive these are about 40 bucks for a 16f footer where the 56:51 other ones were 70 bucks for a 12-footer for the PVC so I'm going to go with this and I already prepainted these I'll be 56:58 cutting down that big 16 footer to around 14 ft and putting it up there is going to be a little bit of a challenge 57:03 because it's a 1x8 and that front Ledger is a 2x6 I can't really screw something 57:08 to the bottom of it I need a spacer so I made this little jig which I think is actually pretty cool I just have a 57:13 little piece of 2x4 which is going to go on the underside of that front face of 2x6 and then that'll give me the inch 57:19 and a half that I need so there'll be a little bit of wiggle room and I got a little piece of OSB and then just another scrap on the front so things 57:25 won't fall off and hopefully this will work really well we'll see got the fascia board cut to size and I got that 57:32 measurement by putting it a couple pieces of scrap of this board on the right side and left side because this 57:37 board will have the whole front covered and then we'll tie into it on the side ones after we get this one up oh do not 57:44 fall oh my gosh do not fall good gracious ## Installing drip edge and shingles 58:00 all right it is finally time to start installing the roof I'm super excited and this is my first time doing it so I 58:06 want to make sure I do it the right way and for what it looks like the whole idea is that it's all about how you 58:11 install things and there's a very specific sequence that you want to follow and basically you want to follow 58:16 the way that the water goes but in Reverse so whatever the water's going to hit right before it falls off the roof you start there and work your way up 58:23 until you get where the water is going to initially fall and the reason behind that is if you start with where the water starts and then you end up where 58:29 the water ends then it gives a little spot here of penetration where the water can go and that will get down in behind 58:35 there and cause you problems on the other hand if you start in the back where the water's going to end and then work your way up now when that water 58:41 comes off the top it's going to shed down so I'm going to start up there on the back installing the drip edge then I can start doing that taping process and 58:48 working my way up the roof now here's the drip edge that I'm going to be using and you can see it's got the little angle drip that'll come away from the 58:55 fascia here and and then this is the side that will get nailed in and I'm just going to nail this in with some roofing nails you can do that by hand 59:01 but I bought a roofing nailer because it's a great excuse to buy a new tool I'm also going to use some roof flashing 59:06 sealant here and I'll put that on the facial side of the drip edge that way if there's any driven rain that comes up it won't go up underneath it I want to 59:13 secure this with some nails and then come back and trim out that corner and ear protection isotunes Link in 59:22 description and for this corner here I'm going to use these little shears and I'm going to cut right along that edge on 59:29 the top and then fold it in this doesn't have to be perfect because it's going to be covered up by the side trim all right 59:36 we've got the low afternoon sun here so I know we're casting a lot of Shadows but down here uh I'm going to overlap 59:42 this by at least 6 in and then I'm going to cut it again with an inch and a half overhang for this far side and then bend 59:49 it around just like I did on the other corner and we'll put some right on top of here to help this stick down 59:57 if I can get those as close as possible to each other then we should be 1:00:03 good all right now let me trim this 1:00:09 corner and if you have fast forward to get here yes I did not put felt down because I am using this uh Georgia 1:00:16 Pacific force field so to protect the edges I'm going to use some tape now they did have some Georgia Pacific tape 1:00:23 but I looked at the reviews and they were horrible it said like the backing was coming off like so I did not get that tape and I do know that the Zip 1:00:30 system is a great tape so I'll tape that and then I'll tape the rest of my seams 1:00:36 and then I can start on the side trim and I'm going to overlap it so that the tape is on top of the nails and that way 1:00:41 I don't need to seal up the nails with any of the flashing sealant because the tape will get [Music] 1:00:51 it now I'm just going to work all the way up the roof taping I'll tape my short seams then the long ones short 1:00:56 long all the way until I get to the [Music] 1:01:22 top all right I just finished up and the sun is set setting so we're going to have to do the shingles tomorrow but 1:01:28 honestly I don't think this saved much if any time between the rolling and everything I feel like doing felt would 1:01:34 be just as fast all right it's time to put down some shingles and I'm going to be using these architectural shingles so 1:01:41 I like these because they have better wind resistance they look better although you're never going to see the back side of my roof now traditionally 1:01:47 you would start with a starter strip for your shingles but because my roof is only 15 ft wide didn't make sense to 1:01:52 spend the extra money on those so I'm going to go ahead and make my own start shingles and basically I'm just going to cut off the bottom piece here and use 1:01:59 this top piece for the starter strip I'm also going to cut 6 and 1 12 1:02:06 Ines off the end to give it a staggered start for my first shingle it's definitely better to cut 1:02:13 the other side of these I'm going to take the first starter strip here that I have going do a 3/4 in overhang on each 1:02:21 side and we'll just fasten this with some roofing nails about three in 1:02:27 up now just work my way down finish that starter strip and we can get to the full 1:02:33 shingles now we can start laying the shingles but we need to make sure that everything is staggered you don't want any seams right over another seam or 1:02:40 obviously the water could get in so you want to do what they call making a book and that is basically making a series of 1:02:47 different cuts so that you'll have a staggered start 1:02:56 this is my full one and you can see we're going to land past where we cut 1:03:01 off the starter shingle here now I'm going to line the rest of my books and stair step up so that I can 1:03:08 then just go all the way down with the whole shingle it's a little bit Breezy up here which is nice because it is hot on the 1:03:15 roof all right as I'm getting down to the end uh I'm going to have little pieces that are not going to be 1:03:21 obviously a full shingle so what I'm going to use is the offcuts from the books I cut earlier then I'll cut them 1:03:26 off with a 3/4 in reveal over the side just like the other one I got a little wise and I got some 1:03:32 knee pads and now I can just start back on this next row and I'm just going to 1:03:38 keep lining up to the reveal and then same thing over the edge as I get here down to the edge I 1:03:46 was before cutting it off on the side after I laid them down that was a huge pain because cutting from the top versus 1:03:52 cutting from the nice soft back is just way harder so what I'm doing now I'm 1:03:58 going to take my piece and then Mark a little line where the overhang is and flip it over then I can cut it to size 1:04:04 and nail it down it is way easier than trying to cut them after they're already 1:04:10 [Music] 1:04:17 installed before I get to the final rows I went ahead and applied more of the zip sheathing tape and just rolled it over 1:04:23 that front edge just a bit that way it's going to make sure that that Gap in between the sheathing and that front 1:04:28 facial board is sealed up so my second to last row actually turned out perfect that it's right up here along the front 1:04:35 edge and so for the last row I am going to put these on and then cut them down 1:04:41 and actually I'm going to cut them down first just like I've been doing on the side because I just really don't like 1:04:46 cutting it down once it's already installed so I'm going to cut it down so that it'll be flush here nail them down 1:04:51 and then go ahead and put on that front uh drip edge all right the last piece to go on is another piece of this drip edge 1:04:59 and I pre-bent the edge here and there's a little Gap there but I'm going to fill that in with some sealant when I'm done 1:05:06 I fold it over this tab underneath so as the water runs off everything should go downhill I'll do sealant on there nail 1:05:12 it down we'll be good to go [Music] 1:05:37 now this was my first time installing Roofing and I got to say it was a little bit easier than I had expected and I 1:05:43 think that's also because of the 212 pitch of the roof so I didn't have to deal with anything too crazy but all the 1:05:48 roofing angles and trusses and all those things are going to be covered in the build plans if you are interested in those but let's jump into what the costs 1:05:55 were the lumber for the rafters came in at $146 and the sheathing and the shingles came in at 1:06:01 $343 we had $253 in house wrap and different ceiling $158 for trim and $47 1:06:08 for Fasteners so adding that all up together came into $947 for the roofing portion now I did 1:06:15 include the sheathing for the exterior of the actual shed in the framing portion and just the sheathing for the 1:06:20 roof and those numbers I was pretty happy to keep all that under $1,000 and that brought the total up to 1:06:28 $2,479 now we're over halfway to that $4,300 Mark that I'm trying to stay under but I was feeling pretty good so 1:06:34 we went ahead and moved on to the windows and the door all right here's my base trim and I already cut it to size ## Installing exterior trim 1:06:40 and painted it a little bit earlier and went ahead and put a little scrap piece on the end here so I could measure it 1:06:46 and make sure it's exactly right so now I'm just going to line this up so I'll tack it in place with some trim nails and then come back and screw it in place 1:06:52 all the way down I don't want this to be right on top of the OSB so I'm going to use some little pain sters that I cut 1:06:58 down to size as a spacer I'll just put these on top to make sure we have a little bit of a gap 1:07:04 there I know a lot of you were worried about these big gaps down here on the side and that you know a whole family of 1:07:11 raccoons or beavers or turkeys or ghost deer we're going to be hiding under there but don't worry this is going to 1:07:17 cover it up that's why they call these rat boards I'm also going to Mark where the sleepers are here so I can drive the 1:07:22 screws into there as well 1:07:29 right now I'm going to move on to the sopit up here so I'm just going to go with the painted halfin plywood which is going to be the same material I'm going 1:07:35 to be using for the door so trying to get a little bit extra usage out of that material that I bought as well I am 1:07:40 going to have to break this up into two runs because it's about 13 ft across the front here so I'm going go ahead and get those measurements and then we can cut 1:07:46 them to size and of course like Norm taught us when you're using power tools there's no more important safety rule than to wear 1:07:53 these safety glasses 1:08:01 all right so I didn't think about this but I'm uh marking where the rafters are on the wall because once I put it up 1:08:07 there I don't know where they're at I have to nail into something so we'll see how 1:08:18 works I can't underscore how much I just fly by the seat of my 1:08:24 pants just forget things all the time just ask Susan she'll tell 1:08:29 [Music] 1:08:41 [Music] 1:08:48 you all right SS are done all right next up I'm going to move over to the corner 1:08:54 trim and I'm going going to have a 1x4 on the front and then a 1x4 on the side to make a nice corner and that will be 1:09:01 where the lap siding is going to terminate into on each side so here's a little drawing somewhere around here 1:09:06 about how it's going to look I think it's going to look really awesome and what I want to do is assemble them 1:09:11 beforehand so I have a nice little corner and then I can put that corner up all together I think that's going to be a lot easier so let's just do a 1:09:20 preassembly you know sometimes I wish I wasn't such a perfectionist because I just realized as I clamp these up uh 1:09:28 this looks horribly disgusting when you have this nice textured Cedar look on the face and then if I put this on the 1:09:35 edge it's not going to match at all also it's going to be the entire width of the 1:09:40 thickness of this wider than what the front would be so what I've decided I'm going to do is miter these together so 1:09:47 that it's a nice seamless Edge and Joint I'm going to go ahead and take this home and miter it and then we'll come back 1:09:53 and fix everything later so now I have a nice 45° angle and so 1:09:59 here's how we're going to match up the corner and make it look good these two pieces right here are going to be my front right Corners since this one here 1:10:06 is my front right I did that back bevel on the top to match the top of the roof and you can see that right here it's 1:10:11 about a 9° bevel and so what I need to do since these are going to be together as I close up the miter this one needs 1:10:18 to come back at the same 9° to match the downward sloping side of that side so 1:10:23 I'm going to go ahead and butt up the hand here mark it then I can cut my 90° over on the 1:10:29 microft I already test fit the front so now let me test fit the side here before 1:10:34 we do the assembly that is just right I've got just enough space for the caulking so looks like that fit is going 1:10:40 to be perfect now let's hope it stays that way after the glue up to glue these up I'm going to use a trick that I used 1:10:47 on my floating shelves video and I'm going to have this packing tape I'm going to get these buted up so that they 1:10:52 are right where I want them I'll go ahead and clamp them and place place down here now I'm going to take the 1:10:57 packing tape and just tape it right along the seam and then I can flip it over and glue it and just fold it 1:11:04 in we've got this nice Valley here with the miter and I can just put the waterproof wood glue in there put it 1:11:10 together and hit it with some Me nails I was thinking about it and I'm going to go ahead and install it while 1:11:16 it's still a little wet so if there's a little movement in there it will just kind of form fit to the side here and 1:11:22 then if there's any kind of gaps on the corner I can always deal that with uh caulk and everything else because caul 1:11:28 and paint make you the carpenter that you ain't the back Corners are a little bit 1:11:35 different so this is the back right side this is the side and this is the back and so you can see on the side it's 1:11:40 actually sloping down now to again follow the slope of the roof so just make sure that you have everything in 1:11:46 order as you're doing that double check triple check measure Thrice cut nice 1:11:56 [Music] 1:12:10 it's going to start raining really soon that's okay because next up I'm going to tackle the door and right now I just 1:12:16 have this OSB up there and that's to keep the uh you know ghost deer raccoons and skunks out but I want a nice big 1:12:22 double wide door that's going to come out and make it easy to get in a lawnmower or anything else that I want 1:12:28 to put in there so head back to the shop get started on ## Building and installing the doors 1:12:38 [Music] 1:12:45 that these doors are going to be pretty basic it's going to be a 2x4 frame then we're going to have plywood on the front 1:12:52 so I've already cut down the 2x4s to size I'm going to go and put together the frame first and I'm going to be 1:12:57 using pocket hole screws to do that and I'm going to be using these bigger HD pocket hole screws which are nice and 1:13:03 beefy and you could also just screw in from the sides if you don't have the HD pocket hole 1:13:08 [Music] 1:13:19 screws now since these are going to be double doors I want to have an overlap so one of the frames is going to be WI 1:13:25 wider than the other in on the front it's going to look like they're the same but there will be an overlap on the back so I did cut the boards to two different 1:13:32 lengths so I want to make sure that I get those correct I'm going to lay out some lines on the sides as well as the 1:13:38 top and the bottom and then that way I can position the frame exactly where it needs to be so I'm going to lay down 1:13:43 some wood glue and then also secure it with some screws make sure that those are nice and flush and before I get 1:13:50 everything all locked in I'm also going to make sure that this little frame is square cuz I think it's out just a 1:13:55 little bit I'll pull it in then we should have a nice Square door I can do the other 1:14:01 [Music] 1:14:13 one I'm going to put some OSB on the back side of these but all of that is over at the property so right now what 1:14:19 I'm going to do is put the trim on the front I'll be using the same textured trim that I have on the corner there so 1:14:25 everything will match and look nice and basically I'm just going to trim all around and then one right down the 1:14:30 corner and I'll hit it with a little bit of glue and some Me [Music] 1:14:49 nails all right we had some rain move in and uh this is what I keep to yeah know 1:14:55 keep the rain out this is probably my favorite part of the project day when I don't get 1:15:10 squashed the way I'm doing this door is a little unique different from some of the other folks that you probably seen 1:15:15 out there and I'm going to be actually using a door jam so I've got a little 1x4 here and I just grabbed the furring 1:15:22 strip because super cheap had to dig a long time to find a somewhat straight buring Strip by the way uh so this is 1:15:28 just a 1x4 and it's not cut the length yet but uh this is going to go in here right against this side of the door and 1:15:35 basically it's going to go right where the trim is but I am going to rip the edge off of this first so it doesn't have that rounded on there and it can 1:15:41 make a nice hard corner so that the house wrap won't be shining through and this is the absolute perfect use case 1:15:48 for this little Alibaba crazy miter saw no it's actually a table 1:15:55 saw someone to rip off the edges right on this bad 1:16:01 [Music] 1:16:07 boy you know sometimes you're so worried about a mistake in the future that uh you just don't see the one that comes up 1:16:13 and bites you right in the butt in the present right as I was coming to put this in here I noticed that right down 1:16:20 here the sheathing is actually out further than the door frame there and I 1:16:26 didn't notice it because of this house wrap so yeah I'm going to have to take 1:16:32 this trim off and deal with this because uh it's going to screw everything 1:16:38 [Music] 1:16:52 up all right that was a nice little tour but now I can put in this door jam here 1:16:57 and I measured it and the door thickness of that plywood plus the trim on the door is actually just about a 16th More 1:17:05 Than This external one here so I'm going to use my tape measure to measure off a 1:17:10 one and a 16th of an inch and that's where I'm going to tack this thing in place we'll do it around and get the 1:17:18 [Music] doors the moment of truth is upon us I 1:17:23 have gone ahead and put down piece of OSB to hold it off of the floor cuz that's going to be the bottom Gap now 1:17:28 this is going to be the stationary door so this one is going to be the one on the left that's why you have this uh piece 2x4 sticking over and then the 1:17:34 other one is going to overlap it let's see how we 1:17:39 did come on 1:17:45 baby all right that's looking good this might be a stupid idea because there's 1:17:51 nothing holding this door up here except for this 2x4 but I'm going to try to put the other door in well let's just see 1:17:57 how this goes looks like this door is a little 1:18:03 twisted but I'm hoping once we put the hardware on there that should hold it in place but yeah that looks pretty 1:18:14 [Music] 1:18:21 good all right we're all painted up and I've got six hinges and a dream so let's put these things on I'm going to install 1:18:28 this is the bottom and the top I'm going to have that flush up to there so we can be far down as here as possible and then 1:18:34 I'm also going to split the hinge right down the middle on the edge of the door here so I'll go ahead and Mark these get 1:18:41 them drilled and installed [Music] 1:18:50 [Music] 1:18:56 right now that we've got the hinges on there it should be pretty trivial to get it mounted up there I just have to get it shimmed but then again nothing is 1:19:02 Trivial because uh starting Thunder and I think those storms are coming back so 1:19:08 we'll see this is fitting differently this 1:19:15 time I I don't think we're going to make it it is starting to really get dark here and 1:19:21 stormy and I definitely don't want the fresh paint to get rained on so I think I'm actually going to put the doors 1:19:27 inside the shed and then stick up the little temporary door and then come back 1:19:32 when it's done hopefully this just blows through real [Applause] [Music] 1:19:39 quick and this is a great example of why this has taken me so long to build weather has not been on my side 1:19:59 all right and we're 1:20:05 [Music] back after a lot of back and forth I 1:20:12 think I've got it set up uh the lines and the gaps are not completely all the same but we have quarter inch down the 1:20:19 middle and quar inch most of the places few things are out of whack because you know building all as long as these 1:20:25 hinges go in the right way it should be a nice 1:20:30 [Music] fit I'm just going to put two screws in each one and just make sure everything 1:20:36 is squared up before I go drilling them all in 1:20:41 [Music] 1:20:50 there all right let's see how we did about to get another downpour 1:20:55 so hopefully this is done all 1:21:01 right oh I can't open that with that in there oh boy okay oh this is in here 1:21:11 good okay 1:21:18 [Music] now they're not swinging clothes which means they're pretty plum 1:21:27 all right now just need to have some latches on here to keep things shut I think this is great I'll finish the 1:21:33 screws in there as well we're going to finish the doors off with a little locked handle and it is just a little 1:21:38 handle with a keyway in it and then this little piece on the back that goes on here and so we can lock and unlock it 1:21:44 and this locks onto the other door so all we need to do is just drill a Hol for this little Rod to go through and 1:21:50 then we can mount it and hopefully not get electrocuted now this does pain me a bit because I've 1:21:56 actually have to go in a bit further because of this overhang on the door I need to go through the 2x4 and not 1:22:03 through the thinner part here and so it's not going to be centered on this rail but you got to do what you got to 1:22:08 do I'm going go ahe and close this 1:22:14 [Music] 1:22:26 that nice to be on the other [Music] way all right let's see how it 1:22:35 works that is a bit too tight back this off a little 1:22:41 bit there we go I need to lock these doors in place still obviously but Lock 1:22:50 Works I am going to be putting some stairs or maybe even a ramp not sure yet on on the front here but this front 1:22:56 plywood is going to be real susceptible getting tore up and you can already see it's kind of getting rough so I'm going 1:23:01 to go ahead and put this little window seill threshold on here this is just an aluminum piece and I'm going to screw it 1:23:07 down on top of there and it's going to be a great way to protect that front edge from really getting beat up and 1:23:12 this should also drain away the water because it's got this nice little standoff there that's going to slope it down towards the front 1:23:20 [Music] 1:23:28 to keep the stationary door in place I'm going to use one of these little spring latches and it just will lock in place 1:23:34 like that so it'll be nice and easy I'm going to have one on the top and one on the bottom but I'm only going to put the one on the top right now because I don't 1:23:40 have my bit to drill into the aluminum so I'm going to put this on here and 1:23:46 then we will locate the hole on the top so you'll see me using this little OSB shim on the back and that's going to pull this off a little bit the reason 1:23:51 I'm doing that is because I want to put a full sheet of OSB on the back back of this door but I don't have the long screws that I want to switch out on the 1:23:58 hinges I don't want to put too much weight on those because it's only got those small screws in there right 1:24:05 [Music] now all right let's see how it turned 1:24:14 out oh yeah nice I'm probably going to put a little metal piece on top of there 1:24:20 just to give it some reinforcement so it's not just wood but that work nicely 1:24:25 now if you're hearing some things in the audio that is not buzzing audio those are the cicas we have cicas here in 1:24:31 Tennessee and in the South and the Midwest of the United States and they come up every 13 or 17 years and they're 1:24:38 this crazy looking bug they're all over the place they're up on the shed they break out of these little shells and 1:24:43 they are just the most disgusting looking little creatures we have turkeys up here they're eating them it's just 1:24:49 all kinds of crazy so if you hear some buzzing it's just that it's probably going to get worse as the shed videos go 1:24:55 on gota love the cicadas another storm just blew through but now it is time to ## Installing the shed windows 1:25:01 get to the windows I am so excited about these windows they're actually going to be built in place and I'm going to use 1:25:07 some acrylic for them I'm going to go ahead and go inside and measure for the interior pieces before I cut this out 1:25:14 just in case anything goes wrong I don't want to cut the house wrap first and doing the house wrap has been really nice because it's just covered up those 1:25:20 windows and I haven't have to worry about water getting in it after I've had the house wrap up but it's time to cut into it so I'm going to be using some 1:25:27 1x4s that I've ripped down these are actually I think 2 and 1/2 in right now and then I'm going to use the other 1:25:33 pieces for the trim to hold in that acrylic the stops or mions or whatever 1:25:38 they're called but I'm going to go ahead and put these in and measure for them and they'll just go up flush up against 1:25:46 the front of the shed now I'm going to measure for the vertical pieces cut all those to size 1:25:51 for all of the windows then we can cut open the house wrap and start nailing the stuff in place so I'm just going to 1:25:56 go ahead and start by cutting in this Notch and I'm not sure exactly how this is going to go I know I'm going to seal this up so we'll see what 1:26:07 happens I know I'm going overboard with this but I'm going to weather seal these windows and just because I want to I 1:26:14 want to figure out how to do it cuz I've never done that before I think it'd be good experience to try to flash a window so I'm going to use this zip tape that 1:26:21 we used up on the roof and I'm going to go around the B and the sides and just make sure that if any water comes in 1:26:27 through those windows if anything leaks behind there it's not going to get inside the shed or the sheathing it's 1:26:32 going to go on the outside hit the house wrap and go all the way to the bottom right I'm actually going to cut 1:26:38 all this house wrap flush to the front here because I will seal that with the 1:26:44 tape and this is not stretchy tape so I'm going to start off with little patches here on the corners then I'll do 1:26:50 my bottom and work my way up there all right now I'm going to do a big piece 1:26:55 right around the front edge of this all right now I'm going to wrap this 1:27:01 around we should have a nice waterproof corner there guess we'll find 1:27:07 [Music] 1:27:13 out now I'm pretty sure on the video they said just to pull these Corner things not to cut them so I'm going to 1:27:18 do that here and don't worry about wrinkles I believe is what they said 1:27:25 oh yeah way 1:27:41 better I absolutely did not do that right so let me know down in the comments is there better ways to do that 1:27:47 I feel like the house wrap was kind of weird when I was pulling it down but uh I did kind of like you know putting it 1:27:52 in the center first and then rolling it into the corners instead of trying to start up on the side and going to the corners that was way easier so I would 1:27:59 suggest definitely starting in the base and then going up the walls versus the other way but uh I don't know I think 1:28:05 it'll work now I can start installing these frames and I'm basically just going to put these in here and butt the 1:28:11 front end so it's flush with the exterior of the front of the shed and then I'll have some trim later we'll 1:28:16 have some nice reveals [Music] 1:28:25 now I'm going to use these little 3/4-inch strips of Mion or stops or I don't know what you call them but uh 1:28:30 these are the offcuts from the other side of that 1x4 and I'm just going to place those around the interior and then 1:28:36 the window will go up against those and I'm just going to nail them in place with some Me nails 1:28:47 [Music] 1:28:57 [Music] 1:29:03 for the windows I'm going to be using this acrylic sheet and this is I believe right about an eighth of an inch thick 1:29:08 if you go any thinner than that you can really start to get wavy and the/ qu inch thick is pretty expensive so this 1:29:14 is a nice happy medium I'm going to put some caulking on the inside and then just stick these on there and we can 1:29:19 start nailing them off from the back right I'm in the shed because the cadas are incredibly loud out there and you 1:29:24 can't hear me out there now I can start putting the window in I don't want to use the black silicone because on the 1:29:29 Windows it might creep up and show through so I'm going to be using a clear silicone for this one and it's rain ready in 30 minutes which can really 1:29:36 help out uh in these conditions I've been in so I cut these little mions which is just like what we did on the 1:29:42 outside and we're going to sandwich the window in between the one that I already painted and then this one so I'm 1:29:48 actually just going to put a bead all around the outside nice and thick so that it will really seat into it but not 1:29:54 too much that uh it will actually squeeze up and be able to see it from the exterior so see if we can do 1:30:02 that I'm just going to put a bead in this corner as well to keep it from leaking even though I see the outside 1:30:09 it's going be Extra Protection now I'm going to peel off the protective coating on one 1:30:16 side I'm just going to push it in here I get all attached all right right now I can peel 1:30:23 off the other side of the protective coating 1:30:28 oo nice and clear I love this acrylic and now I can start putting in these 1:30:34 little mions which are going to hold everything in place and then I can take these out if I need to if I need to replace the 1:30:44 window all 1:30:51 right now for this one I'm actually not going to peel it all off I'm just going to peel off the edges because my nailer 1:30:57 was hitting the inside of that other one and it straped it up a 1:31:03 little all right now we can rip it off oh 1:31:09 yeah that's looking good I have a lot of birds banging into this I bet and when 1:31:16 you're pushing the acrylic into the silicone you can really see it go against the window and press out then 1:31:22 you'll know if you have a good seal but you can see as I push this in it just squishes 1:31:28 out and I'm also going to caul on the outside right here as well so that's going to weather seal 1:31:38 [Music] it all right this is looking amazing now 1:31:46 but now that I have the windows there and then the sun setting in the west it's going to be super hot so I 1:31:52 definitely need to get some vents in there to get some cross Breeze cuz I working in there man I'm sweating like a 1:31:57 hog and to make sure that no water makes its way down the window and in between the acrylic and the little wood mullon 1:32:05 there I'm going to put another little bead of some clear silicone and that should make sure that everything stays 1:32:10 watertight and we can just put the trim on the outside of the windows and they'll be 1:32:20 great getting the shed sealed up from the elements was such a huge relief especially as I had all that snow and 1:32:27 rain pouring in that just kind of decimated the floor so that felt really good to get it done looking at the cost 1:32:33 this was the cheapest portion and probably the smallest advancements made but the lumber came in at 1:32:39 $167 we had Hardware coming in at $82 the trim was 1:32:44 $93 the acrylic for the windows was 57 and the paint was $46 for a gallon of 1:32:50 trim paint so the total for this portion was $445 $5 that brings the grand total 1:32:56 up to $2,925 at this point I was getting super excited to see this thing done and 1:33:03 staying under $3,000 at this point was great but the siding is definitely a huge expense probably the number one 1:33:09 expense of a singular item so we'll see how that one turns out let's go ahead and get started on wrapping this thing ## Flashing and siding starter strip 1:33:14 up we'll start off by flashing the base so we can start installing the siding so I picked up some Z flashing that I'm 1:33:20 just going to tuck under the house wrap so if any water gets back behind there go on top of the house wrap hit on top of the Z flashing and just come straight 1:33:27 down the face but I'm going to lay out the cut and also draw in a little 45 where I can bend around that corner at 1:33:33 the bottom and then I'll just have to use some caul to kind of seal everything up honestly I'm not sure if I'm getting this right or not and I would highly 1:33:39 recommend practicing on uh some sheet metal before because you can cut this 1:33:44 very different ways depending upon how you're holding them and which one you're using a right or a left or just a 1:33:49 straight tin snip so let's just jump into it after bending that around this actually looks pretty decent and I think 1:33:56 it's going to work not bad all right after struggling to try to 1:34:03 jam this guy in the corner for a little too long I just going to take off all this corner trim it's going to make it 1:34:08 so much easier also I'm going to put on gloves because when you're working with sheet metal you're going to get Cuts like 1:34:14 [Music] that all right much easier with that 1:34:20 freed up now I can just work my way around 1:34:25 [Music] 1:34:43 now I need to prep the building for the siding because I need to nail into the studs I'm using 2 and 38 in galvanized 1:34:49 nails in the framing nailer and I'm going to use my level and a Sharpie to go through and work all the studs around 1:34:55 the building so be really easy to see where they're at now with this front trim it does get a little bit tricky but 1:35:00 I can just kind of feel over here and I can feel that this is the seam so I know that I put in a panel right here so this 1:35:06 is going to be my stud and then I can go 16 in each [Music] 1:35:16 Direction all right so I've never installed lap siding before and getting the stud locations is great but what is 1:35:22 going to be really important is getting those horizontal layout lines to make sure that we're getting those spaced properly and especially as you go around 1:35:29 the corners that everything flows and it doesn't look all mismatched so I went ahead and put some blue tape on this 1:35:35 level and I'm going to be marking the layout lines and this will really be my story stick for the lower half of the 1:35:41 shed so since the siding is 8 in and I want to have a 1-in overlap that is the 1:35:47 minimum reveal so I'm actually going to go 6 and 7/8 which will give me an inch and an eigh of that overlap which would 1:35:53 be great great so I'm going to mark that on the stick but because it's not going to have an overlap at the bottom I'm 1:35:58 going to add on that extra inch so it's actually to be seven and 7/8 down for the first Mark and then six and 7/8 so 1:36:05 the easiest way for me to think about it is to go up s in and then back off an eighth so that would be 7 in back off an 1:36:11 eighth 22 back off an eighth and just keep an eye on this this is one of those things that'll be really easy to mess up 1:36:17 and screw everything up so double check it after you're done oh that is not right now I can use these 1:36:24 marks to lay things out and I'm going to use the ledge on that base trim as my reference point because that should be 1:36:30 at the same location all the way around and now I can mark up on each of these and then know that everything's going to 1:36:36 connect now I'm going to do the other side here on the outside of the door and then that's going to give me my two points and I can connect the chalk line 1:36:43 in between them put a little nail in here on one side and run my chalk line over to the other and snap it and I'll 1:36:50 just do that all the way up [Music] 1:37:01 now theoretically all I have to do is do that all the way around and we'll see if it matches when I'm done but I'm going 1:37:06 to go ahead and do this and then rip around the rest of the [Music] 1:37:16 shed on the bottom we do need to have a starter strip and that is to help kick out that lower panel because there's not 1:37:23 another piece for it to lay on top of and you want it to have that nice same look as the rest of them so I used the 1:37:29 most dangerous saw in the world and cut down these little 1in strips over on the little alib baba convertible saw but I'm 1:37:34 going to nail these in around and I am going to space them off of the deck 38 of an inch per the instructions for the 1:37:40 siding so the product that I'm using here is wood composite siding you can see here on the back this is just little ## Siding the back of the shed 1:37:47 particle board press board if you're using a cement product for siding make sure that you have good dust protection 1:37:52 because the dust all that stuff is nasty it can get your lungs and do really bad stuff this stuff is just really like 1:37:58 normal wood went ahead and cut the starter piece and this is a full width I just cut it to length and anytime that 1:38:04 you cut this to length and you have that exposed composite wood you're supposed to seal that up so I used a primer on 1:38:11 that an exterior primer is what you want to use and made sure that that's all sealed up and that way it won't swell if 1:38:17 it gets any water on it so looking at the specs for the siding they want you to have it 3/16 of an inch from the trim 1:38:23 so I pretty printed this little guy to help me out so it has a nice little piece here that is my 316 overlap and I 1:38:29 can make sure I have the right position now I can bring it up to the line and Tack in my first nav I'm going to come 1:38:37 down to the other end just to make sure that uh my line is proper all the way 1:38:43 across there we go now I can just hit my studs coming back towards the 1:38:49 front since all my side a't going to be the same length over there on that side I can cut mult mes at once so I'll just 1:38:54 go ahead and cut three at a 1:39:01 time all right now that I've got this first piece I can break these guys out and I'm super excited to see how these 1:39:08 work these are the gecko gauge and I'll have a link down below to all the stuff I'm using here but I've seen several of 1:39:13 my buddies use these so I'm just going to slide this under the trim and I can just lock this down and then I can rest 1:39:20 my next piece right there all right let's see how these things work I got these set a little low it's okay I can 1:39:27 adjust that bring it up to the line now I can just slide this guy off 1:39:35 and I should be able to just put it up on the next row but I am going to adjust it also something to notice uh this is 1:39:40 blind nails so you want to make sure that the nails are in that top inch of the board so that when that next one comes in it covers them up and you've 1:39:47 got that nice reveal now to make sure we don't get a lot of moisture build up in any mold growth inside I'm going to be 1:39:52 putting in this 8 by8 in vent here and I'm going to be putting this down here in the bottom and I'll put another one 1:39:58 on the top side of the opposite corner and that will have a nice cross Breeze because this wind comes off of the Hill 1:40:04 here so to put this in I need to have a little trim block and that'll make everything look real nice so I went 1:40:10 ahead and cut down a few boards and glued them together for that trim block so I'm waiting for that to dry I'm just going to install all the siding on the 1:40:16 backat because there are no obstructions or anything I can just go straight up with the siding plus it'll give me a little practice in case I mess up it'll 1:40:23 be on the back 1:40:38 side all right I'm definitely glad I started on the back because I'm already getting off and I'm quite a bit below if 1:40:45 you can look at the Mark here as I'm looking at it it's almost a/4 inch low and I'm trying to figure it out and I 1:40:51 rechecked all my lines and everything with was right then I saw the issue so the issue is not the spacing on the 1:40:58 gecko gauge but how I'm locking it down and what's happening and so I don't love that for this design I wish it was a 1:41:05 little bit different but so you can see when it's not locked down it's nice and flush against the siding but when you 1:41:11 move this up to put that pressure on it this pushes it away but what's happening 1:41:16 is it's pulling away and the underside of the siding actually has a little 1:41:21 bevel to it so what's happening is bevel was kind of pushing to the front and the whole thing was dipping down probably 1:41:27 you know around a 16th or maybe even less but it Stacks up as you go along so 1:41:33 make sure you pay attention to that and from now on I'm just going to barely lock it and make sure that the gauge 1:41:38 still stays flush with the siding and I'll make a few adjustments from here and in two or three rows it should be 1:41:44 back on track but definitely make sure you watch out for that 1:41:50 [Music] 1:41:56 for this Top Strip This is not going to be a full piece it's going to be close though so I'm just going to take the 1:42:03 gecko gauge put it on there and then use that to measure my my reveal right there 1:42:10 so I'm coming up about 6 and 3/4 so I'll subtract 38 so I can have that reveal at the top for the caulking and I'll go 1:42:16 ahead and rip that one down get it up [Music] 1:42:26 that works surprisingly [Music] 1:42:34 well well I'm not exactly sure how we got here but uh here we are I have a 1:42:39 large gap up here on this side but on the other side it's exactly where I wanted to be so somehow along the way 1:42:46 even though I was lining up with the lines this side came down almost a half an inch and I measured the whole wall 1:42:53 and it is indeed dropped down over here so I'm not sure what happened and so as a double check going forward I'm going 1:42:58 to actually measure from the bottom as well every once in a while and just see if everything is lining up that way so 1:43:06 I'm just going to leave it like this and then fill it in later it's the back I don't want to have to cut a new piece 1:43:11 and uh waste this one so yeah just be a nice reminder that uh you know level's 1:43:16 not always level 1:43:23 now I'm done with the back this piece is all nice and dry put a little coat of primer on it and what I want to do is ## Installing siding and vent blocks on sides 1:43:28 put it somewhere right about here and it's going to have the vent on there and 1:43:33 I left a little space here that I can do an electrical outlet for what I need to do now is cut it out and because it is 1:43:40 so tall it's going to span over two pieces so I'm going to put this other piece in here and see where it would 1:43:45 fall so I'm going to use a little offcut and then the gecko gauges and I'm going to put these both kind of right here 1:43:54 just so I can hold the piece and then I can place this block so there's a little bit on the top here still yet and then a 1:44:00 little bit on the bottom now I'm going to draw a little line right here which will show my overlap and I can just line 1:44:07 up the center line of this piece with that line and that should be nice and 1:44:12 centered when it's [Music] 1:44:21 done now I can put in my next piece here and trace the outline now I am going to 1:44:27 cut this off of the wall just cuz it'll be a lot easier I have to worry about cutting into the house wrap like I did a 1:44:33 little bit on this one all right I'm actually going to leave that piece in there while I'm putting it in just so uh 1:44:39 that little in part doesn't break off then I'll cut it free once it's 1:44:45 nailed all right all right that turned out really nice and I'm not going to 1:44:50 install it right this moment because I want to put some flat lashing over the top of it and I'm not sure exactly how 1:44:56 to do that so I'm going to research that tonight in the meantime I'm going to keep going see how far I can get before 1:45:01 the sun goes [Music] 1:45:07 down all right the sun is just about to go down but I got all of the ful length planks up which is great once you get 1:45:14 going and you don't have to make any cuts it goes really fast you can put up like three in probably like 10 minutes 1:45:20 and there's like I don't know 2 or 3 minutes a piece but this is looking great and now we can do the other side 1:45:26 and start in on the front and the angled Cuts tomorrow all right minor change of plans the sun is down it feels glorious 1:45:33 I'm just going to see how much I can get done on this wall before it just gets pitch 1:45:39 [Music] black setting up for this next board and 1:45:46 there's a big lump in here I need to cut this open to figure out what it is 1:45:54 it was the remnants of a cicada I guess he got caught behind the house wrap but uh we'll just patch that up and we'll 1:46:00 see him again in 17 [Applause] [Music] 1:46:12 [Music] 1:46:19 years all right well the frogs are out the lightning bugs are out out and I can't see a thing anymore so I am going 1:46:26 to call it quits for the day but I glad that I got those extra planks up because it's going to be hot one 1:46:32 tomorrow I'm at the point now where I have to start cutting the siding to match the soft in so we're no longer 1:46:37 going to have full siiz pieces so I'm going be using a little digital angle finder and I do know that it is a 212 1:46:44 pitch because that's the pitch of my roof but this is you know maybe just a little bit off so I want to get the exact angle 1:46:50 here so I'm going to lock this in at 9 and a half and then cut my pieces so that I can have a nice little 3/16 1:46:57 reveal up at the top and then that way I'll just fill that in with some cocking and we'll paint that and it'll look 1:47:03 great so I went to ahead and cut the angle on this side now I can put it in place and mark the end so I can cut it 1:47:10 to length on just that flat side all right so this piece is definitely Too Short that's okay I will use it for this 1:47:17 next row here so I need to have one that is actually full width because that length does go all the way to the end at 1:47:24 the overlap on that side so what I can do to figure out this end is I'm going to measure up my 6 and 1:47:31 7/8 which is going to be my reveal so we wanted to have a little 7/16 lip on the 1:47:37 end of that so it doesn't come to an exact point I'll go cut that on Saw and we'll bring that back 1:47:42 over I'm putting a little piece of blue tape right over where the studs are because once I put the board up there I 1:47:48 can't see them anymore so it's got a nice little visual indicator for me 1:47:53 before I lock this in place I am going to be making a few Cuts because I have the other vent so we're going to have 1:47:59 one 8 in vent up here and then the other one down low on the other side so I'm just going to kind of eyeball where 1:48:06 that's going to be between these two studs here now I can pull this down and I'm going to make the layout on the 1:48:11 piece here make the cut and then make the cut on the top piece just like I did before so that this will fit in there 1:48:17 nicely and then we can have our little ventilation 1:48:30 all right let's see how we did all right that looks pretty good the 1:48:35 true test is going to come on the next one all right here's the Moment of 1:48:45 Truth all right perfect put the vent in there later and this looks like a really 1:48:51 nice custom install you these little utility blocks is a great way to go to 1:48:56 make it blend in nicely and get good trim 1:49:30 all right with all those angles done now I can jump over to the front and start putting the lap siding on there down ## Siding front of shed 1:49:35 here on the right and left side of the door that should be really easy cuz they're small pieces they'll be easy to handle and I can just put those up real 1:49:42 quick once we get to the top of the doors and around the windows that will definitely be a little bit more tricky but I'm going to enjoy the easy part 1:49:49 while I can 1:49:59 [Music] 1:50:04 so I'm at the point now at the top of the door and I want to put some flashing up there I'm going to use some tin 1:50:10 flashing so before I get into that on this top I'm actually going to practice on the little blocks that I did for the 1:50:16 vents on each side just so I can see how it works first and then I can translate that up here so I've got this block and 1:50:23 this is the same thickness as the trim over the front of the door and I have the flashing that I used around the 1:50:29 Basse trim even right here now the problem is is that on the bass trim I had the OSB standing off so this little 1:50:36 lip right here was plenty good but as I go to this piece it does not work like 1:50:43 that you see there's a it only covers about half of the top so I actually had to rebend this flashing I did that over 1:50:49 in the shop first I flattened this part of it so that it was just one big big flat piece and then I bent it over so it 1:50:55 fit exactly and now we have a perfect flashing made just for this so this is 1:51:00 going to work nicely uh it's going to be a little more tricky when I go to the door cuz it's going to be a lot longer but this worked out really nice before I 1:51:07 put everything on I am going to put this guy in here and Mark for that cutout behind 1:51:15 [Music] it I really should have done this and 1:51:21 installed the block before I installed this piece and that's because uh now I can't seal the top of the trim and I 1:51:28 can't nail it in there it's going to be okay I'm going to just deal with it I'll apply some sealant to the back or up in 1:51:33 there and just kind of put it up there and then just hope if any water does get back there it will hit the front of this from behind here but we do still have 1:51:40 the house wrap which should be a a good protectant so when you're building your own put the Block in and put the cap in 1:51:47 as you're going up with the siding not after pretty a nice big juicy 1:51:53 bead you know what they always say it's better to have more caul than you need I 1:51:58 may even flare out this top trim here just so the water drips over the top of this but that is looking 1:52:06 [Music] 1:52:11 awesome I do have the top cap made for the door frame and I went ahead and primed it so I'm going to paint it the 1:52:18 same color as that trim so hopefully it will blend in and then these ones on the sides will just be the same color as the 1:52:24 side of the building now this thing is a bit wavy because I had to hammer it out and kind of form it myself so if you can 1:52:30 buy one that is already the size that you need for the top I would highly recommend to do it that 1:52:38 [Music] way all right the sun is coming back out and it just rained and I think that is a 1:52:44 combination for the cicas to come back I thought they were gone but apparently they're cheering me on to the finish 1:52:50 line so uh next up I'm going to be putting the face frames on the front of the windows I'm going to start with the 1:52:55 one in the middle and then use my level to the left and the right just to make sure they're nice and aligned and I'm 1:53:01 just going to tack these guys up there then I can put that top cap flashing on here which I made for each of the windows as 1:53:07 [Music] well 1:53:14 no ran out of tape on the last window this will be a much more 1:53:20 expensively flashed window all right that'll do all right these 1:53:27 next few cuts are going to be the trickiest of them all because I have to align everything here and I'm not sure 1:53:33 exactly how it's all going to land I'm just going to have to start doing it and see how it falls out because I have a 1:53:39 sneaky suspicion that I'm going to have to have little itty bitty slivers uh just because the way things fall on the 1:53:44 window but one way we can find out is to get to it and one great thing about the size of this shed is that the front is 1:53:50 just under 12T and these siding planks come in 12T lengths so my longest cuts 1:53:56 are all just under the full length of that so there's no breaks that I have to deal with anywhere on any part of the 1:54:08 [Music] 1:54:18 shed all right let's give this guy a test fit and try not to break it in the 1:54:24 process all right this actually looks really good except for I am definitely going to have to cut some off of the top 1:54:30 so I'm going to have to notch out for these windows I'll just put some marks on these and then we can get to 1:54:37 [Music] cutting all right I went ahead and 1:54:43 already painted this just in faith come on 1:54:48 baby oh that's nice it need come up a little bit over there but I knew that 1:54:56 all right I guess we'll pick up tomorrow all right it's the next day and 1:55:01 what I thought looked great actually does not look good at all there is a 1:55:06 gosh a 38 almost a half inch Gap under this window and I realized what happened it's cuz I subtracted an eighth instead 1:55:13 of added an eighth that way when I was measuring it I got turned around so I'm actually going to take this off because 1:55:20 uh I don't like this Gap here I'm going to have to fill with cough it's going to look horrible I've got extra material so 1:55:25 we're going to do it right you know mistakes are made wearing the shirt today and on R 1:55:32 [Music] 1:55:40 [Music] it all right let's see how we 1:55:46 did definitely a tighter fit all right 1:55:55 you know that's the great thing about DIY projects is that sometimes you just learn on the job and sometimes you have 1:56:01 to fix a mistake and you're going to feel better about it so just use the mistakes as a learning lesson and get 1:56:08 better the next [Music] 1:56:14 time all for these middle ones these little pieces right here I just have to kind of set it by eye and I'm going to set it off of the frame to make it look 1:56:21 similar to the other two because there's really no reference point since this is a cut line there but should be 1:56:28 okay all right this last cut is definitely going to be a tough one so I've basically just been measuring 1:56:34 everything up there and writing it on the back of a piece of scrap here and I'm going to try to translate that and 1:56:40 cut it and put it up there but I'm pretty much just reserved to the fact that I'm going to have to cut a second one so I'm going to get the first one as 1:56:46 best as I can put it up there see where it's missing and then make some adjustments like I did with the underside of the Windows all right here 1:56:53 goes nothing let's 1:56:58 see yeah this one's definitely off but everything else looks pretty darn good few little Trims and uh we should be 1:57:05 good to go all right second 1:57:10 time oh yeah that's ## Sealing and painting the shed 1:57:17 it all right I just finished up the least enjoyable part of this project which is called all those seams 1:57:23 basically anywhere where we left those expansion gaps CL needs to go and we want to keep it weather tight and I was 1:57:30 waiting for the cl to dry I did wipe it down with just a little damp uh whatever this little shammy jalopy thing is 1:57:36 called and just to get the dirt off but not to make it soaking wet and I want to use a hose because I do want to paint it 1:57:42 here in the next hour or so and one thing I should have done a long time ago was put this into place if you've got 1:57:48 two extension ladders all I did was just get some 10t 2x4s and then put some of 1:57:54 the uh OSB on top of it and this is so much nicer I'll definitely use this when 1:58:00 I'm painting up here and way better than continually moving the ladder I wish I had thought about this about I don't 1:58:05 know a few months ago W all right I got the front windows taped up and the hinges and I have a little paint shield 1:58:12 that I'm going to use to try to keep the rest of the trim going I'm going to paint all the base coat right now and it is a little bit after Sunset so I'm 1:58:19 going to try to get this all done because it is going to rain tomorrow I am using an airless sprayer this is my first time using it so we'll see how it 1:58:25 goes so the color I'm using for the shed is here and the trim is right there so let's get 1:58:30 [Music] 1:58:43 spraying an airless sprayer makes amazingly short work of that my gosh 1:58:50 [Music] 1:58:58 [Music] 1:59:05 [Music] and check out that 1:59:12 sunset this looks amazing I'm so stoked 1:59:25 [Music] all right after a couple coats of trim paint this thing is looking amazing I 1:59:31 love how this turned out the lean to style and the modern design is just 1:59:41 awesome now like I mentioned in the video you could definitely go with the 4x8 kind of t111 panel siding and then 1:59:47 you wouldn't need the OSB sheathing or the lap siding and that's going to be a huge cost reduction but it's also going 1:59:52 to be a huge reduction in how nice your shed looks in my opinion and I would not change this at all I think the lap 1:59:58 siding is well worth the investment for how nice it makes the property look and I will just plug the plans one more time 2:00:04 if you do want to build your own shed we have a link Down Below in the description you can get those plans it's going to cover you with all of the parts 2:00:10 that you're going to need as well as step-by-step instructions and I hope you enjoy them so looking at the actual cost 2:00:16 here the sighting was the number one cost in this total project coming in at $610 2:00:22 by itself now on top of that we had $53 in caul and adhesives for cealing and we 2:00:27 had $34 in hardware and the final piece was $163 for a 5 Gall bucket of the 2:00:34 paint and I did have about 2 and half gallons left over so it probably would have been cheaper to just use three gallons but I didn't want to run out so 2:00:41 for the siding and paint portion that brought us to $860 and now for the grand total so 2:00:46 pulling in all of the cost we came in at 3,78 2:00:52 $85 so we came in under half of the cost of buying the shed but not only that we 2:00:57 came in under the lowest cost price of their 10 X1 12 shed which is just the worst little Gable no windows no nothing 2:01:06 which they had up on their site for $3,999 so if you're thinking about building a shed I would highly recommend 2:01:12 it go ahead and pick up the plans down below Link in the description I'm Brad until next time guys get out there and 2:01:17 build something awesome